patterns

Charm Patterns Lamour Dress

Gretchen Hirsch’s new indie pattern line Charm Patterns by Gertie has launched! I was a pattern tester for her Lamour Dress back in June and now I can finally post about it! The Lamour Dress is a Shaheen inspired fit and flare dress with a 3/4 circle skirt and several wearing options for the straps. The best part is that it’s cup sized up to DD and it actually fits your boobs! I tried making Butterick 6019, which goes up to a D cup and getting the bodice to fit was a nightmare. The sizing on this pattern is so much better!

I really love this dress! I’m wearing it with a crinoline so the skirt has more poof than if you go without!

Since it’s a Gertie pattern it’s got a lot of vintage details like spiral steel boning and a waist stay. ¬†This isn’t a pattern for a new sewist, but if you’ve made a dress or two you can definitely make this dress. The pattern has excellent instructions! The most tedious part of making the dress was cutting out all the fabric. The bodice has 3 layers (outer fabric, under lining, lining) and lots of bodice pieces! But once that’s done it’s actually pretty quick to make the dress. Gertie’s method for doing a narrow hem makes the usually painful task of hemming a circle skirt relatively quick and easy!
For my fabric I used this anchor embroidered checked gingham taffeta that I bought in Joann eons ago! it’s perfect for this dress! The dress is lined with a red cotton and underlined with muslin. My wedges were meant for this outfit! They have little sailboats and anchors on them. ūüôā

Gretchen ended up making only one change to the final pattern – changing the neckline on the larger cup sizes to be a little lower. I liked the neckline as it is as my longline bra has very full coverage cups. So something to be aware of if you make this pattern.

So what do you think? Is this pattern going on your wish list? ¬†Gertie also has the peasant style Rita top in her Charm Patterns line! I bought this pattern on Kickstarter and I’m eager to make that too.

Kalle Crop Top

Closet Case Patterns has just released their new Spring pattern РKalle Shirt + Shirtdress which means I can post my tester version! Yay!  This pattern started off life as a fabulous white linen shirt dress that Heather posted on Instagram last Summer. Besides the shirtdress, the Kalle pattern includes a tunic and a crop top.

I made a crop top for my tester version. This is definitely outside of my comfort zone in terms of wardrobe, but I had just enough Kaufman Union chambray leftover from another project to make one so I went for it. Side Note: did you notice that the sample for the tunic version is the same fabric??

This version has a covered button placket, which I’ve never sewn before but it went to together quick and easy! I originally though to wear this with a fuller skirt or high waisted pants but I didn’t like how it looked with either! Luckily I tried it with one of my Magic Pencil skirts and loved the look. I think I also need to make a pair of high waisted shorts to try this with.

Heather let me know that she made two changes to the final pattern based on tester feedback:
– Reduced neckline size by about 2″. The collar now sits much closer to the neck.
– Made sleeve wider on upper sizes. (I’m glad this was done as you can see the sleeves are a little tight on me)

I can’t wait for my new pattern to arrive. I’ve got some black and white buffalo check shirting that’s been waiting to be made into a tunic! You can order the pattern here in paper or pdf or pick it up at your local retailer.

 

Note: As a pattern tester I receive a free copy of this pattern.

 

Interview Outfit

I had a job interview last week and (I thought) nothing to wear! So I decided to spend a Sunday sewing up a new outfit.  I decided to make the Itch to Stitch Zamora blouse because I like pussy bow blouses and it is cup sized to DD so no FBA needed!

The pattern calls for “light-weight woven fabric with or without stretch. Shirting, rayon challis, broadcloth, linen, satin and crepe are great choices.” ¬†I used Telio Milos Plus which is stretch shirting in cotton/nylon, which I actually regret. ¬†I think this shirt would look much better in a drapier fabric. I do like the pin tucks but the outer two release in a weird spot on my chest. Overall I think that although it fits, it makes me look way too busty.

I removed one of the two front waist darts and I thought about removing the second one, but this fabric is delicate and you can see the old seam. I still may remove about an inch of the 2 outer pin tuck seams.

I also wanted to make a skirt. Pamela’s Patterns Magic¬†Pencil Skirt is my TNT work skirt that also falls into the secret pajamas category. I picked up this lovely rayon ponte (Telio Jockey Ponte) at Fabric Depot during their big anniversary sale. You only need 1 yard and it takes about an hour to sew! I make the high waisted version and omit the front darts.

Blue & White Retro Sundress

Spring is finally emerging in Portland so I immediately need to make something summery! This dress is the spring 2017 pattern from Gretchen Hirsch (Butterick 6453) and she’s currently doing a sew-a-long for it.

I bought 4 yards of Cotton + Steel 1″ Checkers gingham in aqua to make it originally. But then I decided I wanted to make it in View B first and I dug out this neat brocade type fabric I got from Joann’s ages ago.

I cut out my standard Big 4 size (18) and got to doing my flat pattern adjustments before cutting it out. It’s a pretty straightforward sew with the addition of the lapped zipper. ¬†I met Gretchen at Modern Domestic last month and she said she prefers doing lapped zippers because they are stronger than an invisible zipper and you don’t need an exact color match.

Flat Pattern adjustments to the front pieces

Modifications:

  • 3″ FBA
  • Remove 1/2″ from princess seam under bust
  • 3/4″ broad back adjustment
  • Raised armholes 1″ (for bra coverage)
  • Added 1/4″ to strap width (to 5/8″)
  • Removed 2″ from bottom before hemming
  • 1″ full abdomen adjustment

Future Adjustments:

  • Shorten bodice by 1″
  • Move rear strap extensions in toward center


City Lights Turner Dress

Cashmerette is out with another knit dress pattern – the Turner Dress. The Washington dress isn’t really my style so I was glad to see something I would actually wear! ¬†I picked this up at Modern Domestic on Saturday and by Sunday Night I had a new dress.

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Altogether I think this took me under 3 hours to trace, cut, and sew.  I used a rayon/spandex blend which is not the easiest fabric so I spent extra time pinning.  The dress is just 4 pattern pieces.

Speaking of fabric, this is from the Nicole Miller collection at Joann Fabric. All Nicole Miller was 60% off so I finally bought some. This particular print is called Urban Movement. It looks almost like a kaleidoscope of abstract city lights. I had to be careful of my pattern placement with this print.

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If I had one complaint about this pattern it would be that I had to use 3 machines Рsewing, serger, coverstitch.  I prefer to do knits with just my serger and coverstitch, but the v-neckline needed to be sewed and the instructions called for under stitching the neckline.

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I sewed a 18 G/H and I think the fit is good but the waist might be a little big. I think it’s a very flattering style that I could wear without my spanx as it camouflages¬†my tummy.

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This dress is bit fancy looking so I will probably wear it to work. I might make another one out of french terry or some other cozy stretch fabric for more casual wear.

Thumbs up, Cashmerette. This one’s a keeper!